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Episode #109

Sid Pattison On Guiding Everest And Other Big Peaks In the Himalaya

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Featuring: Larry Goldie

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Join Evoke coach Larry Goldie for a conversation with Sid Pattison. Sid has guided three successful Everest expeditions, as well as other Himalayan peaks, including guided Lhotse and Ama Dablam. In addition, Sid has played a role in investigating the 1924 Mallory-Irvine expedition— one of the great unsolved mysteries of mountaineering history as to who was actually the first person to climb Mount Everest.

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Episode Guide

  • 00:00:00 Introduction
  • 00:01:51 Sid’s early years in climbing
  • 00:03:33 Sid’s introduction into being a guide
  • 00:05:08 First experiences guiding in the Himalaya
  • 00:09:58 The benefits of climbing Everest from the North-Side
  • 00:14:18 Pre-acclimatization with a Hypoxico tent
  • 00:19:14 Tips for first exposure to high altitude
  • 00:21:52 Shifts in mentality in people hoping to summit Everest
  • 00:27:04 Sid’s training approaches for the high mountains
  • 00:29:29 The importance of strength training 
  • 00:32:30 Noticing and mitigating the aging process
  • 00:38:23 Looking for Sandy Irvine’s body on Everest
  • 00:50:32 Sid’s 2025 Everest ambitions
  • 00:56:14 Balancing expeditions with family life
  • 01:01:47 Saving energy on expedition
  • 01:02:50 Base fitness and pre-acclimatization 
  • 01:07:31 Parting words of wisdom