Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Plan


The 12-week plan is designed to assist gym climbers in achieving their goal of safely and comfortably climbing on long multi-pitch or alpine rock routes. It is not focused on the use of the latest gear, but rather on developing the necessary skills and mindset for situations where mistakes can have serious consequences. While it is impossible to replicate the exact circumstances of long multi-pitch climbs in a gym setting, this plan aims to help climbers build a solid mindset while accumulating climbing volume, with a focus on gaining strength, endurance, and technical proficiency.

Throughout the plan, climbers will gradually increase their climbing volume each week, with a goal of consolidating and applying their current abilities to volumes of climbing similar to multi-pitch routes. By following the plan closely, climbers can expect to become more comfortable leading closer to their limit both in the gym and outdoors. It is recommended that the majority of the training be done on lead to build a strong mindset in high-exposure and high-consequence situations.

The training is primarily gym-based, with one optional outdoor day per week. Recommended grade progressions are provided for climbers at the 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, and 5.12 levels for each training session. Weekly drills and progressions are suggested to help climbers focus on improving their efficiency and correcting any faults.

The unique demands of multi-pitch and alpine rock climbs require targeted training techniques that cannot be adequately simulated in a commercial gym setting. Climbing performance in a gym does not provide an accurate representation of the skills and knowledge necessary for outdoor multi-pitch climbing. Route setters in commercial gyms cannot replicate the complexity and challenges of multi-pitch terrain. Therefore, it is important to focus on specific practices, drills, and methods that are designed to prepare climbers for the unique challenges of multi-pitch climbing. This training plan utilizes gym facilities in a strategic manner to closely replicate the demands of multi-pitch climbing, ensuring that climbers are well-prepared for the complexities of the outdoors.

Buy Plan - $45
Coach Seth Keena. Photo by Steph Williams.

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