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Reply To: Return to Training: Tough Task

#120381
Avatar photoMark Postle
Moderator

Kamalesh,

Welcome and thanks for posting! I read your post and reread your trip report from Everest. Firstly good for you for making a smart choice in the moment when things weren’t going right and staying safe. I have a couple of thoughts about the Everest trip having been thru that section from BC to Camp 3 a handful of time myself. Obviously as you state here you got caught out in the glacier between camp 1 and 2 late in the day. Its just so warm then and once you get that overly heated there is no way to recover at that altitude. I think 2 things are becoming very common now that didnt use to be common practice and it negatively affects some climbers. 1) Acclimatization schedules/standards get short and shorter every season. Oxygen delivery systems and pre acclimating at home in simulation tents can help with some of this but it can also come back to bite you. 10-15 years ago it was pretty normal to climb Lobuche, do an rotation to camp 2, do a 2nd rotation to camp 3 (including sleeping a night at 3 without O2) then rest and go for the summit. Now I see climber sometimes just doing 1 rotation where they may not even make it to 3 let alone sleep there. Very limited amount of time up high IMO which leaves little room for error. 2) No one stays at camp 1 any more after round 1. I think the day from BC to Camp 2 is to big for many folks and/or it leaves you out on the glacier in the heat of the day. Its horrible. Much better to consider a night at Camp1 then an easy morning the next day.
As for your recovery I am not shocked it has taken you a while. It is a longer process for almost every single person than they think. Its a two part issue where you are deeply fatigued but also lost fitness at the same time. Thats said yours seems a bit longer than most. Did you have a really comprehensive panel of blood work done with your doc? If not i would get one done and if so i would consider a second to compare values/trends. This should help rule out anything more sinister. I think as your energy returns and you can slowly get back training you’ll see things snowball in a positive directions and as you feel stronger and fitter you’ll be able to slowly rebuild aerobic capacity.