Treadwall Training

In this article, coach Dave Thompson outlines the most effective methods, drills, and workout styles used for Treadwall Training.  Treadwall Training is an incredibly effective tool for improving climbing ability. At Evoke, we are often asked how to incorporate the Treadwall into a holistic training regime.

The benefits of using a treadwall for rock climbing training are numerous:

• Treadwalls offer a dynamic platform to replicate actual climbing movements, allowing you to practice skills in a controlled environment.
• Treadwalls can typically be adjusted to different angles, making it possible to vary the difficulty of the climbing to elicit the correct training stimulus.

Unlike traditional climbing walls, treadwalls offer continuous climbing without the need to descend or reset. This seamless experience helps climbers focus on their technique and endurance.

Designing a Treadwall Training Plan

Creating a structured training plan is crucial for efficient and effective progress:

1. Determine your current strengths and weaknesses and set clear climbing goals. Weaknesses are often synonymous with mistakes in force distribution. Having a mind to fix these mistakes gives essential direction to training. There are a variety of ways to assess your strengths and weaknesses. A clear and objective understanding of these provides the necessary direction for the style and frequency of training. The Treadwall shines as a tool to train General Climbing Endurance and Power Endurance efficiently. How to do this will be outlined below. Lastly, a weakness in your climbing is often far more subtle than the typical personal assessment of ‘My hands are weak!’ or ‘I just get too pumped!’. Remember that it is your entire body that solves climbing problems. So, focusing on the quality of force distribution throughout the whole body will aid in eliminating faulty movement patterns and give direction to your training.
2. Structuring a Well-Rounded Training Routine: For this article, we will outline a variety of more extended duration training regimes and transition to shorter regimes, as well as some fundamental movement drills that can be easily practiced and refined on the Treadwall.

Endurance Training: Focus on sustained climbing at a moderate pace.

Continuous Climbing (CC)

There are many names for Continuous Climbing. It is sometimes called ARCing, General Endurance, or Work Capacity. If we compare this to foot-based training, it would be synonymous with long-duration sub-Aerobic Threshold, or aerobic base training. ARCing is classically defined as Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity Training with an emphasis given to stimulating a long-duration, manageable but light pump in the forearms. However, the trouble with defining a workout only in reference to it’s stimulation of the forearms, is that it ignores the fact that climbing is a full-body activity that requires subtle force distribution through the core and all four limbs. And while it is important that a light but manageable forearm pump is achieved, CC is best used as a means of accumulating volume while drilling durable movement patterns such that the ARCing effect occurs in concert with skill acquisition.

The training stimulus outlined above is best achieved in rounds of continuous climbing lasting from 10 to 30 minutes on an angle ranging between vertical and fifteen degrees overhanging. Equally, setting a predefined amount of vertical feet climbed that is similar to that of a goal multi-pitch route, or the vertical feet of a high volume cragging day, say 600 feet of climbing, will help you prepare your general work capacity for those distances on rock. This training can be performed once or up to three times per week depending on your training goals.

Intervals

The Treadwall can be used for shorter duration, higher difficulty intervals. This interval-style training is classically defined as Power Endurance. On the Treadwall this is typically performed at angles ranging from 10 to 35 degrees and climbing times ranging from 30 seconds to upwards of 10 minutes, with rests between intervals being equal to time spent on the wall. Decreasing rest times between intervals in subsequent sessions can be an effective way to progress Interval Training. For a given amount of climbing time, say 5 minute climbing intervals, a reduction of the rest interval by 30 seconds each session down to rest time being half that of time on the wall will give marked increases in Power Endurance. The upper limit for the number of intervals performed for a given session is typically 8-10. A good starting point is 3-5 intervals with equal work:rest times. Given the intense nature of this style of training, it is best performed 1 time per week to 10 days, spread four to five days apart. End the workout when technique suffers, or alternatively change the Treadwall to a more vertical angle during a rest interval to perform your predefined number of intervals.

Strength Training

While strength training can be performed on the Treadwall, it is a tool that shines most brightly for the types of training outlined above.   This is because the rotation of the Treadwall can make highly precise and subtle movements more difficult to execute. Thus for climbing-specific strength training, a static wall such as a spray wall, or one of the various standardized boards (i.e. Moonboard, Kilterboard, or Tension Board) is preferable. This can be mitigated by locking the wall so it doesn’t rotate, or creating sequences that require high amounts of strength, but are less technically difficult. As a general guideline for strength training, incorporate bouldering-style intervals of 4-10 movements with plenty of rest in between to build power. Vary hold sizes and grips to target different muscle groups. Work on fluidity and impeccable technique. Identify skills that can be drilled and incorporated into lower angle and higher volume training such as your Continuous Climbing, or Interval Sessions. Short and pointed strength sessions lasting 30 minutes to an hour can be performed 4-5 days per week, so long as you end the session when you start feeling powered down.

Technique and Skill Development

Treadwalls are ideal for honing climbing techniques:

• Precise Foot Placements: Practice accurate footwork to optimize your movement on the wall.
• Body Positioning: Experiment with body angles and positioning to find the most efficient path.
• Balance and Coordination: Develop a strong sense of balance and coordination by navigating the wall smoothly.
• Movement Drills: Incorporate specific climbing movement drills into your accumulated volume on the Treadwall that challenge your flexibility, coordination, and end-range strength and stability of your joints.
• Incorporating Warm-Up and Cool-Down Routines: Prioritize injury prevention with a thorough warm-up that includes dynamic stretches. Finish each session with static stretches to improve flexibility and aid recovery.
• Weekly Training Schedule and Goal Tracking: Plan your training sessions throughout the week, balancing strength, endurance, and technique. Keep a training journal to track progress and make adjustments as needed.

Progressive Training and Advancement

• Gradually Increasing Difficulty Levels: As you improve, adjust the treadwall angle to increase the challenge. Incorporate smaller holds and more demanding grip types and body positions to further enhance your skills.
• Implementing Interval Training: Intervals are a valuable tool for both endurance and power endurance development. Alternate between periods of high-intensity climbing and rest to improve your overall climbing fitness, as outlined above.
• Periodic Assessment and Adjustments: Regularly evaluate your training plan and adjust it based on your progress. Consider seeking guidance from experienced climbers or coaches to ensure continuous improvement.

Preventing Injuries and Recovery

• Listening to Your Body: Prioritize your safety and well-being. If you experience pain or discomfort, stop and assess the situation. Pushing through pain can lead to serious injuries.
• Proper Warm-Up and Stretching Routines: Warm-up with dynamic stretches that mimic climbing movements. After your session, engage in static stretching to improve flexibility and aid recovery.
• Rest Days and Active Recovery Strategies: Rest is essential for recovery and growth. Incorporate active recovery methods such as light yoga, swimming, or gentle stretching on your rest days.
• Common Climbing-Related Injuries and How to Avoid Them: Learn about common climbing injuries, such as tendonitis and pulley strains, and take preventive measures like proper technique and gradual progression.

Mental Focus and Visualization

• Incorporating Mental Training into Your Routine: Climbing is as much a mental sport as a physical one. Practice mental exercises like deep breathing, mindfulness, and positive visualization to enhance your mental resilience.
• Visualization Techniques for Successful Climbing: Before attempting a climb, visualize yourself successfully completing it. This mental rehearsal can boost your confidence and prepare you for the climb.
• Overcoming Fear and Building Confidence on the Wall: Fear is a natural part of climbing. Gradually push your comfort zone, celebrate small victories, and build your confidence over time.

Tracking Progress and Celebrating Achievements

• Keeping a Training Journal: Document your training sessions, progress, and feelings in a journal. Reviewing your journey can be motivating and provide insights into your growth.
• Measuring Improvements: Regularly assess your climbing skills, endurance, and strength. Monitor your ability to tackle increasingly difficult challenges on the Treadwall.
• Setting and Rewarding Milestones: Break down your climbing goals into smaller milestones. When you achieve these milestones, reward yourself as a way to stay motivated and positive.

Conclusion

Training on a treadwall offers climbers a unique opportunity to refine their skills, build strength, and prepare for outdoor climbing goals. By understanding the equipment, designing a personalized training plan, and incorporating essential techniques, climbers can embark on a journey of continuous improvement. Remember, success in rock climbing is a blend of physical prowess, mental resilience, and a passion for the sport.

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