[worsthorse]

Lots of questions today…  I am returning to climbing after a very (very) long break so rebuilding my basic skills is almost as important as being as fit as I can be for my fall objectives.  I wonder how people are adjusting their training plans to account for hours spent bouldering and climbing (whether indoor or outdoor).  Less strength and muscular endurance time (this is my solution so far)?  Moving some TSS (if you are tracking on Training Peaks) from aerobic work into skills work?  Something else?

Thanks, Bill

 

[Scott Johnston]

Hi Bill;

Thanks for your questions.  This is actually a pretty common dilemma for both people returning after a long break and those just getting started in climbing.

Focus on just climbing and let the fitness return from the actual time spent moving while climbing and the approach/descent time. That’ll get you a bit of a base of general fitness will you re-hone those movement skills.  Later you’ll be better positioned to assess what is holding you back from performing better.

Bouldering I track TSS like strength training (which TSS is not designed for).  Assess your fatigue from a session. Chances are a hard bouldering session will be like max strength and leave you tired for 2-3 days.  Then 80TSS/hr is in the ball park.  Similarly, for sport routes that feel hard.  Easy climbing I track more like aerobic work.

Welcome back to climbing.

Scott

 

 

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