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Reply To: Acclimitization advice for 6000M peaks

#133422
Avatar photoMark Postle
Moderator

Jim,

I feel like you’re approaching this in the right way.  Two thumbs up for aerobic fitness and diamox given your history.  10k’ catches a lot more folks than you would think given how little you read about it.  The number of skiers that develop full blown AMS in Breckenridge/Telluride etc every year is huge.   The “pre acclimatization” days in Leadville is a double edged sword of course and I am not sure 3 days is worth it. You may likely see some benefit but also will be more fatigued (especially with extra flying/driving) and may lose a bit in transit.  With 4 nights in Quito I would think you would be able to acclimate appropriately and be set up for success (especially with some Diamox usage).  I’ve seen the best results with folks being able to spend 7-10 days minimum at elevation so they can really adjust and get over the initial “fatigue hump” that seem to be worst from days 2-4.  Of course thats not realistic for a lot of climbers as we have lives to lead outside of acclimatization.

This study although dealing w lower altitudes is a good reference and would indicate 7-14 days is of course optimal which mirrors my my subjective experience w athletes.  Days 2 – 7 can kind of go either way.

https://www.uphillathlete.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Timing-of-arrival-and-pre-acclimatisation-strategies-for-the-endurance-athlete-competing-at-moderate-to-high-altitudes.pdf