[Scott Johnston]

Hi Bill;

Thanks for your questions.  This is actually a pretty common dilemma for both people returning after a long break and those just getting started in climbing.

Focus on just climbing and let the fitness return from the actual time spent moving while climbing and the approach/descent time. That’ll get you a bit of a base of general fitness will you re-hone those movement skills.  Later you’ll be better positioned to assess what is holding you back from performing better.

Bouldering I track TSS like strength training (which TSS is not designed for).  Assess your fatigue from a session. Chances are a hard bouldering session will be like max strength and leave you tired for 2-3 days.  Then 80TSS/hr is in the ball park.  Similarly, for sport routes that feel hard.  Easy climbing I track more like aerobic work.

Welcome back to climbing.

Scott